Thessaloniki might be Greece’s second city, but it’s widely considered its culinary capital. They could, it seems, swap the sea bass for sardines, which would count as a starter, but Thomas is keen to use minced beef in his gemista stuffing - and, as I now know, serving meat and fish is a no-go. This, however, would mean two main courses. Thomas, in turn, suggests a gemista, a family favourite of peppers and tomatoes stuffed with rice and herbs. ![]() Lefteris Athanasopoulos, Thomas’s friend and Ergon’s executive chef, is drafted in from the kitchen. We eat it on Sundays with our grandparents - ahh, but it’s not Sunday.” We’ll definitely have Greek salad - when we talk about salad, it’s always Greek salad,” Thomas muses, a wry smile creasing his face. However, as is often the case when dealing with those who really know their food, deciding what dish to cook - and therefore what ingredients to buy - is easier said than done. But the brothers have since built a mini empire, with 15 Ergon delis across Europe supplied by an impressive network of artisan Greek food producers. In the beginning, they were “just two kids selling olive oil”. He and his brother George started Ergon 15 years ago, just two blocks from their grandfather’s deli. I know I’m in for a treat as, although he’s only 36, Thomas is a man of some reputation within the Greek food world. Thomas has invited me to join him for lunch later, along with his wife Alexandra, daughter Sofia and a few friends. ![]() There are sacks of beans and barrels of wrinkly kalamata olives, shelves of oils, anchovies and mustards, and a wall of local Greek wines. Inside the shop, cool white walls and concrete pillars oversee a central deli of cheeses, salamis and stuffed vine leaves. I’m sitting in the morning sun outside Ergon Agora, Thomas’s fashionable food emporium and restaurant in Thessaloniki, having been welcomed with a warm smile, a kiss on each cheek and half a dozen breakfast dishes. I’ve suggested the unthinkable - that we have meat and fish for lunch. Thomas Douzis looks at me aghast across a table heaving with Greek yogurt, sesame koulouri bread and cheesy bougatsa pastries.
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